This by no means covers everything discussed.
Mr. Gene McAvoy spoke to us at our April 2012 meeting on Tomatoes.
Start seeds mid-July through the end of December. PLANT from September to October, then end of January to Early February. Growers plant weekly from August to February.
For fruit to "set" on a tomato the temperatures need to be above 50 degrees and below 90 degrees. Some cherry tomatoes will set fruit above 90 degrees and are recommended for summer tomatoes in Lehigh Acres. The variety "solar set" was specifically recommended as a non-cherry tomato for summer.
"Everglades tomatoes" were identified as a generic cherry tomato and not worth paying the extra money for seeds.
Tomatoes can be started from seed and cuttings.
Determinate plants are smaller, produce a large crop at one time, and then die. Indeterminate plants will continue to produce unless hit by frost, bugs, or disease.
Do not store tomatoes in the frig. The "good stuff" in the tomato is destroyed with refrigeration.
Our speaker likened fertilizing only at planting as putting out a 50 pound bag of food for the dog and leaving. The dog would stuff itself, then starve to death. Slow release fertilizers are easiest, but fertilizing often with regular fertilizers also does the job.
After the tomato has set fruit, side dress with nitrogen, not before fruit set.
Tomatoes require 1-2 inches of water per week. Mulching helps keep moisture in the soil instead of evaporating. If using a sprinkler to water, mulching to retain moisture. If using sprinklers, run them early in the morning so that the plants dry as quickly as possible. Drip irrigation is highly recommended.
Common problems.
Start seeds mid-July through the end of December. PLANT from September to October, then end of January to Early February. Growers plant weekly from August to February.
For fruit to "set" on a tomato the temperatures need to be above 50 degrees and below 90 degrees. Some cherry tomatoes will set fruit above 90 degrees and are recommended for summer tomatoes in Lehigh Acres. The variety "solar set" was specifically recommended as a non-cherry tomato for summer.
"Everglades tomatoes" were identified as a generic cherry tomato and not worth paying the extra money for seeds.
Tomatoes can be started from seed and cuttings.
Determinate plants are smaller, produce a large crop at one time, and then die. Indeterminate plants will continue to produce unless hit by frost, bugs, or disease.
Do not store tomatoes in the frig. The "good stuff" in the tomato is destroyed with refrigeration.
Our speaker likened fertilizing only at planting as putting out a 50 pound bag of food for the dog and leaving. The dog would stuff itself, then starve to death. Slow release fertilizers are easiest, but fertilizing often with regular fertilizers also does the job.
After the tomato has set fruit, side dress with nitrogen, not before fruit set.
Tomatoes require 1-2 inches of water per week. Mulching helps keep moisture in the soil instead of evaporating. If using a sprinkler to water, mulching to retain moisture. If using sprinklers, run them early in the morning so that the plants dry as quickly as possible. Drip irrigation is highly recommended.
Common problems.
- Cracking is due to wet/dry weather.
- Blossom end rot is due to lack of calcium. This cannot be fixed once the plant has set fruit. The soil must already contain calcium prior to fruiting.
- Stunted growth is due to nematodes. I was told by a "wise one" that if you don't have worms, you have nematodes.
Pruning will give you larger, but fewer fruits. There is no need to prune tomatoes.
BT gives caterpillars diarrhea.
Spraying one tablespoon of cheap liquid soap in a gallon of water will solve a lot of bug issues.
Solarization is recommended in June-September. Use clear plastic over well watered garden for 4-6 weeks.
Thank you Lillian Nieves for these photos:
